It’s been 13 years since I’ve been “the better half” of a married couple. Sure, I’ve had plenty of dates, and lots of 3 or 6-month interludes. But an ongoing, significant-other life partner, has thus far eluded me. Mostly this is my doing. Like many single mothers, my focus has been about raising my two daughters, working hard to keep them clothed and shoed and providing a secure roof over their heads with good healthy food on the table. Now, they are grown. I have more freedom to travel and explore the world, which is a huge passion for me, but I find myself frequently minus a travel companion. Something marrieds rarely even think about.
Last month, when the opportunity presented itself for a bucket list trip to Africa, I decided to take it. I firmly believe that a huge part of living my “happily even after” is not waiting for, if and when, the right man comes into my life. Instead, I’m choosing to truly enjoy each and every experience life has to offer now, in the moment.
So, with no significant other in sight, I decided to take my eldest daughter, Rachele, on the trip instead. When I told my friends and family about my decision they expressed great fear and concern about two women traveling to such a “dangerous place” on our own. I’m glad we didn’t listen to them.
We traveled to Zambia. The people were extraordinarily friendly, the bush camps to die for, the food superb, the national parks exquisite and the animal sightings unforgettable. Every day we would wake at 5:30 or 6 in the morning. After a campfire breakfast we’d set out in our Indiana Jones-like jeeps for our morning game drives. Rachele and I are both cat lovers, so the promise of glimpsing a leopard was top of our list. Six days into our trip, we hit spotted gold! We found a mama leopard and her three cubs. What I didn’t know, and what made the sighting so much more significant for me, is the story our guide shared about female leopards. You see, once her mate has impregnated her, he takes off. There is no “till death do us part” mating for Leopards. Their natural default is single mothering. Female leopards birth, hunt, feed, preen, teach and coddle their young ones solo. As we marveled at this massively stunning animal, her babies suckling peacefully around her, it struck me how much she and I had in common. Here she is in the middle of one of the harshest environments in the world and proudly, without her significant other, she bravely raises her young.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
It made me wonder: Is single mothering actually a more natural state of being than mated? Are humans truly supposed to be more like the Leopard? What do you think? I’d love to hear from you.
While you are pondering that thought. Here are the Safari Camps we visited and what we liked most about each. Perhaps, you too, will decide to not wait to visit Africa.
Zambezi Crescent – Victoria Falls River Lodge – Location, Location, Location
Most important to me in visiting Africa was to see The Victoria Falls. Rachele and I chose to stay at Victoria Falls River Lodge in Zimbabwe for this part of our excursion. The two-year-old property is the first private game lodge set in the Zambezi National Park on the Zambezi River. The staff creates a very pomp and circumstance arrival. We were whisked from our airport van to a boat dock where we boarded a small watercraft to the lodge jetty. It was a stunning afternoon ride on the river. We had our first exhilarating close encounter with a pod of bobbing hippos. The accommodations, in each of the 10-plein air tents, are very clean and simply appointed with earthy hues. The bathrooms, complete with a claw foot tub set next to the picture window, are all indoors, which is not the case at every camp. They do however have an outdoor showerhead, should you choose to try a fresh air shower. I loved visiting the falls. They are the largest sheath of water in the world, measuring 1708 meters across, and thus one of the seven natural wonders of the world. Known to the locals as Mosi-oa-Tunya, the smoke that thunders. They did not disappoint. The rivers annual flood season is February through May, with its peak in April. The spray from the falls rises 1300 ft. Needless to say we came away soaking wet. After a morning visit to the falls, I suggest a meal at the nearby Edwardian-era, Victoria Falls Hotel. It has a great menu, good service and a spectacular view of the Victoria Falls Bridge, which connects Zambia and Zimbabwe. Baboon families wander freely through the gardens making for a fun bit of lunchtime entertainment. In addition to the game drives organized through the lodge, the Victoria Falls area offers a wide range of family oriented activities. You can find bungee jumping, rafting, heli rides, elephant-back safaris and ziplining.
Chinzombo – Bush meets West
The mere mention of the fact that we’d be staying at Chinzombo in South Luangwa Valley, elicited envy amongst our camp-mates at other properties. And once you set your sights on the ten-month-old property, strategically positioned on a sandy outcropping along the Luangwa River, it’s understandable. The newest addition to Norman Carr Safaris, Chinzombo, is the finest in bush meets west. The decor is very contemporary with rustic details like thick chains, camo green belts and classic safari photo’s of Norman, which populate the main dining area. It is the only camp Rachele and I stayed at that offered wifi in every chalet. They had a temperature control system over the bed, called fresh breeze, I’d never seen before and the mattresses were the most comfortable we’d slept on. We also loved finding hair conditioner, in addition to the requisite shampoo and body wash, in the shower stall. Adding to the luxurious feel, the shower, tub, toilet and washbowls were all contained within the chalet frame. Each person on the staff, from property manager Katie on down, was uber accommodating. At every meal, a different staff member joined us at our table. Having their company made our visit feel more personal and familial.
A good game guide is everything when it comes to an African safari. Known for their driving and walking guides, The Norman Carr guides are some of the most savvy and knowledgeable men in the Valley. In addition to hippos, elephants, baboons and impala our guides also spotted a mama leopard and her suckling cubs, a pride of lions, the elusive hyena and a tableau of Zebra’s. Of course, all this luxury carries a commensurate price tag. But the Norman Carr folks are well aware of the expense and offer combination packages so everyone can enjoy a taste of the safari good life. I suggest you combine a one or two day stay at Chinzombo with a three night walking safari or a stint at their more moderately priced camp, Kapani.
Visit Several Camps
A trek to Africa from the US is not for the traveling faint of heart. It was a 30+hour trip from our home in Long Beach, CA to Zambia’s capitol, Lusaka. Then there was the small plane transfers to the bush camp venues. But, I believe, if you are going to travel so far and long, you should see as much as possible. That’s why it’s great to experience a variety of camps in different parts of the country. For example, Luangwa Valley is home to an indigenous Giraffe that you can’t find anywhere else in the world. Lower Zambezi has a proliferation of Cape buffalo more difficult to spot in other areas. We traveled inter-country via Zambian Airline, Proflight. One of our favorite rides was to Chongwe River Camp in Lower Zambezi. Our plane was a 4-seater. We met up with 3 other travelers, so with only four seats in the back, Rachele got to sit up in the co-pilot’s seat! An adventure unto itself!
Chongwe River Camp – British tradition with Bush Flair
Chongwe is a family owned and operated camp affiliated with Norman Carr, so the sensibility of the staff was as friendly and accommodating as Chinzombo. We immediately felt at home with a warm welcome and a cool hand towel (which, by the way, is offered at almost every camp upon arrival and following each excursion) from camp managers CJ and Flossie. We also got a hearty welcome from a herd of hippo’s that laze all day, across from the camp, where the Chongwe and Zambezi River’s meet.
I loved the confluence of design styles, with a safari camp feel punctuated by touches of traditional British influence. There were beautiful indigenous wood beam joists adjoining the walls, classic wood and glass furnishings and proper sterling silver details, like a dainty floral patterned butter cup. Unlike any of the other camps we visited, all of the bathroom facilities were al fresco. In other words, the toilet, showers and sink bowls were outside the bedroom surrounded by stucco walls and covered by a large canvas umbrella. Our guide, George, treated us to a great game drive. This camp also includes water-based activities. We chose a meandering morning canoe expedition along a crocodile filled Zambezi tributary. Another safari feature, I learned about at Chongwe, is the sundowner (most of the camps provide these delicious moments). It is a lovely African tradition, whereby, out in the bush, your guide sets up a folding table complete with tablecloth and treats the tour group to homemade snacks and the perfect cocktail. We chose the Safari classic, G&T’s (Gin and tonic – the quinine is supposed to repel mosquitoes) served in crystal glasses- natch. It’s all in service to toasting another perfect African sundown. Very Sophisticated.
Robin Pope Safari Camp- Bush Camp Redefined
The amazingly friendly staff at Robin Pope Safari’s Nkwali Camp in South Luangwa Valley, led by camp manager Kris, and guide Chris, greeted Rachele and me. The chalets at RPS were similar to Chongwe Camp with a very modern feel and an open bath area, except these facilities are attached to the room, so it feels more private. Luckily, we were also able to spend a few nights at the property’s Luangwa Safari house. Designed by Neil Rocher, this private house looked like a two story, Flintstones meets life-sized dollhouse, to me. There are four bedrooms, each themed to mimic the elements of water, earth, wind and fire. The spaces are completely open during the day. At night the staff secures the spaces with floor to ceiling mesh screens. That way you feel safe and enclosed, yet still able to hear the sounds of the wildlife that roams area. We had our lunch on the raised deck that juts out over the backyard lagoon. There we indulged in chicken, walnut and blue cheese salad, Parmesan and prosciutto, lentil and tomato salad, and butternut squash quiche while watching an elephant lazily chomped his way through the tall grass. It was an unforgettable experience. The house also affords its visitors a private staff led by hostess, Tina (if you bring small children along on your trip she’ll babysit!) and dedicated guide, Jacob. Jacob’s passion for what he called “his office” (the park) was infectious. The Luangwa Safari house can accommodate up to 8 people, which makes it perfect for a multi-generational family vacation or a group of friends seeking a private getaway.
Chiawa Camp – A Bush Classic
If you are looking for a more traditional African bush camp experience, Chiawa Camp, in the heart of Lower Zambezi National Park, is a good choice. Heavily detailed in dark timber woods, and camouflage green, the tents are fully enclosed. I have to say, of all the places we stayed, the fine dining at Chiawa Camp was the best. All the camps serve three course lunch and dinners, but the chef at Chiawa could not be outdone. One of the best items to bring along to any foreign destination, but particularly one short on outlets is a ChargerGenie. This multi-outlet extension cord cleverly doubles as a make-up bag. Mine is the pink Cheetah print, Natch. Brilliant! In addition to game drives, Chiawa offers variety water activities, including canoe trips, river safaris and angling. One day we floated out to the center of the river, on the camps barge, and enjoyed a delicious lunch. Daniel, our Chiawa guide, proved to be just as dedicated as all the other guides we’d met on our trip. When he heard about a wild dog sighting, we were on it. The whole crew quickly loaded into our game vehicle, despite the impending rainstorm, and drove an hour to the see the three pups. Daniel called it our “Ferrari safari.” It was fast, furious and super fun. Even when it started to rain and our jeep had to be winched out of the deep mud sink was a blast.
See a Village
While it is great to be pampered by the staff at the bush camps, you can’t actually get a feel for the Zambian people or the culture until you sit amongst the locals. That’s why visiting a local village is a must-do. We visited Mfuwe where our host, Constantine, gave us a tour of the round houses guests can stay in overnight, shared a traditional Zambian meal of Nshima (a polenta like corn meal) and took us to the Kawaza school. We spent time talking to a host of ambitious students, and heard about their dreams of becoming doctors, accountants and teachers. We shared our ROXO bracelets with all of them. We also got a peek inside their library, severely bereft of books. A reminder of how much more is still left to accomplish, in order to assist these young people in reaching their fullest potential. Critically important is the symbiotic nature of the bush camps we travelers visit and the conservancy programs taught in school. There is a great bond in tourists, tourism and the sustainability of African culture, the stunning landscape and the preservation of their precious wildlife.
With comfortable flights, great food, safe surroundings, beautiful vistas, amazing wildlife and a warm welcoming people you have no excuse and every reason to make this family trip a bucket list dream come true.